![]() Well, just like everything silicone caulk has a lifespan. ![]() It grabs on tenaciously, which you might think is a good thing, right? After all the you want your caulk to have great adhesion and flexibility so it will seal things up for a long time. When used on bare wood silicone can be deadly and destructive. I doubt you’ll change my mind because my opinion is based on years of experience trying to dig the stuff out of old houses in places it never should have been, but you’re welcome to try. In this post I’ll lay out my case and all you silicone advocates can argue with me in the comments below. ![]() Don’t get me wrong I like silicone, but like everything it has its time and place and used outside of that it creates more problems than it solves. The creme de la creme of the caulk kingdom with nary a competitor to be found who can challenge its amazing performance. Silicone seems to be the savior of the caulk aficionado. Lay the profile base flat on a shear bed, keep the “nose” of the profile towards you and press down firmly to avoid distortion.I get a lot of comments from people wondering why I don’t use silicone caulk on things like leaky wood windows or doors. Most important – keep fingers and other body parts clear of the knife blade. The blade can be replaced with an ordinary utility knife blade. ![]() Using the Miter Shear on Nu-Glaze ® Glazing System This short insert shows how to use the Miter Shear on the Nu-Glaze ® glazing gasket to speed up the cutting process and guarantee an accurate, clean cut. Any dents and cracks on the PVC outer surface can be repaired with PVC Epoxy weld - available at most hardware stores. We recommend researching your cleaning agent and test first on a small inconspicuous area to avoid damaging the profile. Care should be taken NOT to use any of the following: acetone, benzene, aromatic and chlorinated hydrocarbons, ketones, nitro compounds, esters and cyclic ethers. To clean any excess silicone that may have ended up on the glass use methylated spirits, avoiding prolonged contact with the PVC profiles. PVC can be cleaned best with the use of lukewarm water and a dash of soft dishwashing detergent on a damp cloth. We recommend first testing on a small inconspicuous area. If the profile is not damaged it can be re-used very effectively. The same applies to the profile, it can be rubbed/scraped cleaned of the old dried silicone until reasonably clean. Once all four of the profiles have been removed you can rub/remove the silicone further until the frame rebate is clean enough to apply the new silicone. If the glass panel breaks, first remove all loose shards then slowly and carefully lift and pull the outside/vertical profile up and away from the frame while cutting at the silicone that keeps it in place. Alternatively, Polyurethane can be used instead of silicone. Just make sure there is no silicone on the surfaces you want to paint afterwards. Painting and/or priming can be done at any stage afterwards as well. Once the primer has dried sufficiently you can proceed to step 4 in the step by step instructions. If you think you will paint the profile a different colour than white sometime in the future, we advise giving each profile a light sanding with a very fine grit (220 – 320 grit) sanding paper and then to applying a coat of PVC Primer (available at any hardware or paint store). The thickness can vary from 2mm to 6.38mm, depending on the type of application and Nu-Glaze profile that has been chosen. Test for size and square-accuracy by placing the glass panel into the frame. A Pencil - Glass panel – cut 5mm smaller (on all 4 sides) than the frame rebate, as per normal glazing standards. MBS for S-profile and MBW for W-profile - Utility knife and some spare blades - Sandpaper – 80 to 120 grit - Scrapers – those that holds a utility blade works best - Paint, primer, or varnish if necessary. Tools and materials required for installation: - The correct amount and type of Nu-Glaze ® profile lengths - Nu-Glaze ® Neutral Cure Silicone cartridges, 1 per every 15 meters of glazing – we recommend having some extra for irregularities and wastage - A Hammer - A Flat screwdriver 2-3mm wide - An old but sharp 22mm chisel - A Caulking gun - Cleaning cloths or rags - A Hack saw or a small craft saw - Nu-Glaze ® Miter Buddy – a 45, 50 and 60 degree version (are there incorrect versions?).
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